Foodies Asia (en)For "foodies" who are particular about food.

 

A restaurant that translates the blessings of rivers and mountains nurtured by the natural environment into contemporary cuisine, offering a taste of the local terroir.

Although this trend has taken root across various regions in Japan, Nagano has been somewhat slow to embrace it. However, in the realm of local gastronomy, a French restaurant that seems poised to break new ground has been discovered in Togakushi!

 

Ave. Budget: Lunch 3,000-5,000 JPY, Dinner 10,000-15,000 JPY

make a reservation at ‘ikyu’

 

 

Restaurant features

I had been searching for a currently trending Western European cuisine restaurant in northern Nagano, and finally, I found it – the first place I came across is here.

The information came that Chef Tomohiro Ogawa, who has a good reputation for running two restaurants, “L’Orangerie” in Azabu-Juban, Tokyo, and “LULL” in Mikata-cho, Fukui, has been involved in supervising a restaurant in Togakushi. This news caught my attention and made me aware of its existence.

Whether it’s the result of his supervisory role, the culinary team’s skills on-site, or the abundance of local produce due to the surrounding environment, I cannot judge. However, I believe it has turned into a restaurant that even food enthusiasts who travel nationwide would not want to miss.

The location is the historical building of the “Former Nakasha Public Hall” situated on the approach to Togakushi Shrine Chusha. This building has been renovated, with the second floor becoming the hotel “RITA Togakushi” and the first floor becoming the restaurant “awai.”

It seems they opened at the end of April 2023.

 

The menu is primarily focused on courses.

The menu is centered around omakase (chef’s choice) courses.

For lunch, there are also individual items available, while during café hours, they offer drinks and sweets. For dinner, the structure consists of courses only.

Coffee, tea, and oolong tea are included in the course price and can also be ordered during the meal. However, drinks like coffee, tea, and oolong tea were included in the course price and can also be ordered during the meal. However, if you want additional drinks like wine or beer, you’ll have to place a separate order.

Since I’m driving, I can’t consume alcoholic beverages like wine or beer. They do offer fruit juices like apple juice, but I’m concerned the flavors might clash with the meal, so I’ll opt for a non-alcoholic beer.

 

Soba Flour and Garam Masala Beignet

Starting with an amuse-bouche, a bite-sized snack. They use the famous Togakushi soba (buckwheat noodles) while infusing it with a strong spiciness from the garam masala.

 

 

Evening Primrose and Eggplant Soup

One of Nagano’s summer symbols, the evening primrose, presented in a soup, a novel concept. Its jelly-like texture is both unique and refreshing.

 

Rice Flour Bread

The first bread offering.

 

Assorted Togakushi Vegetables

Tomato is served fresh, while zucchini, carrots, evening primrose, onions, bell peppers, shishito peppers, and sweet potatoes are grilled. Pumpkin puree serves as a sauce replacement.

This dish showcases the intensity of flavors of vegetables grown in Togakushi, nurtured by the significant temperature variations at an elevation of 1200 meters and the pristine water of the region.

The robustness of the vegetable flavors, including the soup from earlier, contributes to an overall stronger taste compared to the more common contemporary French cuisine.

 

Roasted Duck

At this price point, the generous portion of duck is quite impressive.

The onion sauce adds a refreshing touch.

 

Baguette

The bread offered for seconds was a baguette.

 

Risotto

A risotto that highlights the freshness of herbs like shiso (perilla).

Its taste is unique, not easily classifiable as solely French, Italian, or Japanese.

 

Post-meal Drink

For the drink, I opted for coffee as usual.

As mentioned before, tea and oolong tea are also available options.

 

Outstanding Value Lunch Course

Speaking of which, it’s about the content of the lunch that makes you wonder, “Is this really the price?”

When I made the reservation, it was mentioned as a “3,000 yen lunch course.” So, I had a slight image of adding something extra to a set lunch, thinking, well, maybe I’ll come back in the evening if it’s good. However, it turned out to be a proper course.

 

I forgot to mention, but the restaurant’s concept is to “savor the flavors of Togakushi.”

Promoted as an “Original French cuisine centered around Togakushi’s seasonal vegetables and mountain delicacies,” it is indeed true. However, I feel this isn’t necessarily a new and groundbreaking concept anymore; it might be more of an inherent prerequisite.

Creators who recognize the importance of harnessing the essence of a region or locality have emerged across the country in the past five years or so, making them no longer a rare presence.

While starting from this common base, the current gourmet scene seems to be in a phase of contemplating how to uniquely express themselves given such conditions. In other words, as previously mentioned, it’s a “work in progress” in the gastronomic scene.

Not limited to Togakushi, in Nagano’s tourist spots, due to the strong influence of past successes, it’s been somewhat challenging for new sensations to take root. However, it seems that even in Togakushi, a breakthrough might have been made.

I might continue to observe this going forward.

 

Menu

[Lunch] “Course” – 3,000 yen

[Café] Starting from 550 yen

[Dinner] “Course” – 9,350 yen

 

Menu and prices are provided for reference only. Please note that they may vary depending on the season and ingredient availability.

 

How to make a reservation

By phone or via the web. Web instant reservations are accepted through Ikyu.

make a reservation at ‘ikyu’

 

Reserve Accommodation at RITA Togakushi

Reserve on Relux

Reserve on Ikyu

Reserve on Rakuten Travel

 

 

Map/Access

Public Transportation: From Nagano Station Zenkoji Exit, take Bus No. 70 via Loop Bridge to Togakushi Line, or Bus No. 73 via Prefectural Route Togakushi Line, and get off at “Nakashadai Gate” (Approximately 70 minutes travel time).

By Car: Approximately 30 minutes from Shinano Town Interchange on the Joshinetsu Expressway, approximately 65 minutes from Nagano Interchange via Bird Line, or approximately 75 minutes via Asakawa Loop Line.