I have experienced the top runner of modern Thai cuisine, “Sla Boo-a-Bye Kiin Kiin,” produced by Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen, which gained one star in its first year of Michelin Bangkok and once again attracted attention.
Ave. Budget: Lunch course 3,200 THB++, Dinner course 2,150 THB++ / “Michelin Guide Bangkok 2023” 1-star
A leader in modern Thai cuisine
International Thai cuisine led by London’s Naam and Copenhagen’s Kin Kin
If we were to name the restaurants that have contributed to the improvement of the value of Thai cuisine on an international stage, they would be Denmark’s “KIIN KIIN” and Britain’s “nahm.” “nahm” in London gained one Michelin star in 2002 and “KIIN KIIN” in Copenhagen did the same.
These two establishments have elevated Thai cuisine, which was once just a regional cuisine in Asia, to a level that deserves recognition in the world of European gastronomy.
It might be pointed out that this discussion is only about Europe, despite being referred to as “international,” or that Michelin is often mocked, but I have no objections to the fact that in those days, Michelin in Europe was a media with authority and influence.
“nahm” opened its doors in Bangkok in 2010 in the form of reverse importation and “Sla Boo-a-Bye Kiin Kiin,” produced by “KIIN KIIN,” opened in 2009.
It’s interesting that the two leading figures, Australian David Thompson of “nahm” and Henrik Yde-Andersen of “KIIN KIIN,” have completely different stances, with Thompson leaning more towards traditional palace cuisine and Yde-Andersen towards innovation, but they are both driving and expanding the current Thai cuisine scene.
Click here for “nahm” report
Main dining at the 5-star hotel “Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok” for celebrities
The introduction has become lengthy, but that is “Slab by King King.”
In “Asia’s Best Restaurants 50”, it was nominated at No.29 in 2013 and No.21 in 2014. From the 2018 edition, it earned one Michelin star, establishing itself as a solid position as a modern Thai cuisine restaurant in Bangkok.
One might say that you can feel the difference in class from the location where the restaurant is.
Located on the first floor of the 5-star hotel “Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok,” this is the main dining of the hotel that is popular among the wealthy.
After passing through the high-end shopping mall “Siam Paragon,” which was created with the pride of modern Bangkok, you enter the hotel and are impressed by its luxury.
The interior of “Slava” is also an elegant space with a high ceiling, taking advantage of the building’s structure that extends to the second floor.
When you enter the entrance, you will be greeted by the origin of the store name, “Lotus Pond”.
Despite making the reservation well in advance, I was seated in a private box seat in the back even though I was dining alone for lunch.
The menu offered a la carte options, but I usually choose a set menu at an innovative restaurant for the first time because I can’t imagine what the dishes I know will look like.
To my surprise, the menu was on an iPad with photos, so I could see what each dish looked like… but I decided to stick to my original plan and order the set menu.
The 4-course menu was priced at 1,700 THB+ (approximately 6,000 yen to), and the 3-course menu was priced at 1,500 THB+ (approximately 5,500 yen to), so there wasn’t much difference. I selected the 4-course menu. The only dinner course offered is an 8-course menu, priced at 3,200 THB+ (approximately 11,500 yen to).
Enter another world with thoughtful amuse bouche and beautifully presented appetizers
A bit of sweet rice wine is included in the set menu.
This is an appetizer served before the meal.
I saw a rich wine list and chose a crisp Sauvignon Blanc rosé.
I think rosé wine is a safe choice to pair with Asian cuisine.
The “4 course” Thai cuisine I was wondering about turned out to be the appetizers.
It seems to follow the current European course cuisine.
Although the restaurant is located in Denmark, the head chef, Mr. Andersen, is from French cuisine.
He was fascinated by Thai cuisine during his travels and switched, but you can see his original roots.
First, “Lotus Root Snack.”
Then, a bite-sized foie gras mousse on a lotus leaf with Thai wasabi mousse.
Looking at past menus, it seems that they specialize in snacks refined from street food.
From appetizers to main dishes with an innovative essence
The first appetizer is “Cucumber and Drat Tomato, Beef Salad”.
The combination of cool cucumber and fresh herbs such as Tyme, makes for a tropical feel.
This cucumber garnish seems to be a sort of signature, and is used in combination with various ingredients such as seafood and meat.
Next is the cold appetizer, “Lobster Salad”.
It is a salad of lobster and seasonal vegetables with a sauce made of ice cream and espuma.
To keep it cold, liquid nitrogen is on the bottom side of the hollow dish, producing a smoky coolness.
The main dish is “Sous-vide Uzura (Quail) Confit with Tomato and Mushroom”.
The broth from the quail is made into jelly beads and topped with coriander sauce. The soup is poured on the plate after it is brought to the table.
It is not pictured, but jasmine rice is served here.
Although not a curry, the “Tom Kha Gai” made with coconut milk and seasoned with spices goes well with the rich flavor of the quail and rice.
For dessert, a banana cake and a coconut ice cream with fried rice were served.
Although this is a “4 course” lunch, there were a variety of dishes served in detail, so there was a good sense of satisfaction.
What is the innovation of Thai cuisine?
Overall, the content could be described as a fusion of French and New Nordic cuisine.
I have read a review that suggests that Thai cuisine is just one of the materials used to make molecular cuisine, but it’s a delicate matter.
The difference is slim.
If you are not a local, you may fall into a narrow-minded, backward discrimination that says you shouldn’t cook the cuisine.
For example, when I visited “Toyo Eatery” in Manila, Philippines, I felt that the Philippine cuisine that became the “material” was not losing, and was using the format of New Nordic cuisine to move to the next dimension.
Whether this “Slava” cuisine has such a happy relationship that enhances each other well, I would like to leave it to the judgement of those who have actually tasted it. However, it is certain that continuing these trials and errors leads to the evolution of creativity and culture.
–Information of “SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN” —
Business Hours: Lunch 112:00～15:00, Dinner 18:00～00:00
Holiday: None
Telephone: +66 2 656 1003
Address: Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, Rama 1 Road 991/9, 10330, Bangkok
Official web
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