“Le Du”, the most anticipated restaurant that has been nominated for “Asia’s Best Restaurants 50 2017” and tops various rankings.
What is the innovation of Thai cuisine presented by Mr. Ton-san, a young chef in his 30s representing Bangkok’s new generation?
We explored the truth.
Ave. Budget: Dinner Course 3,500-4,500++THB / “Michelin Guide Bangkok 2023” 1-star, “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022” No.4
Using seasonal Thai ingredients and incorporating techniques honed in New York, pursuing a new Thai cuisine.
Although not backed by statistics, Thailand may be one of the most multi-cultural and diverse countries in Asia.
Looking back at its history, the country has appointed foreigners to its central government, and its cultural tendencies seem to reflect this.
Living in Thailand, one feels that there is a relaxed and welcoming attitude towards foreigners in the environment, which is a part of the country’s DNA, such as the nickname “Land of Smiles.”
This probably holds true for the food culture as well.
Even when interacting with Thai foreign top chefs, there is no hint of a “helper” attitude, like during Japan’s bubble era.
It is characterized by an atmosphere full of “Ah, I guess I just grew to like it” vibes.
Perhaps it was inevitable that Bangkok rose to the forefront of Asia’s gourmet city between 2016-17.
If the keyword for the current gourmet scene is individual sense expressed after passing through multi-culture, then the potential for Bangkok to naturally embrace foreigners is unparalleled.
After the political turmoil of a few years ago, it may finally be starting to show its presence.
The name of the restaurant is “season” in Thai. Pursuing New Thai Cuisine with New York Techniques
前置きが長くなりましたが、さて、『LE.DU（ル・ドゥ）』です。
バンコク新世代の躍進の象徴のような存在なのですが、実際に店を訪れてみて感じたのは、上に書いたような新世代のダイバーシティ、マルチカルチャー的な創作性でした。
これは、タイ料理なの？ いや、フランス料理もかなり入ってるよな？ あれれ、やっぱ中華料理か？と、テーブルの上の皿のルーツを考え始めると混乱してしまって、挙げ句の果てには「美味しいから、どうでもいいや」ってなってしまうようなクロスオーバー感が気持ちいいお店と言ってもいいかもしれません。
“LE.DU” is a symbol of Bangkok’s new generation of progress.
Upon visiting the restaurant, you’ll find a diverse, multicultural creativity that showcases the new generation.
You might find yourself confused about the roots of the dishes on the table, but the cross-over feeling is so enjoyable that you end up thinking, “Who cares where it’s from, as long as it’s delicious.”
店があるのは、バンコクの中心街の一つシーロムエリア。
BTSの「Chong Nonsi（チョンノンシー）」駅から徒歩３分。少しだけ小径に入るので、一気に静かな雰囲気になったビルにあります。
中に入ると、レンガ造の内装に、北欧系の座りやすい椅子とテーブルなどシンプルな中に趣のある雰囲気。透かし細工をうまく使った衝立やキャンドルスタンドなど、落ち着いた雰囲気にホッとします。
The restaurant is located in the Silom area of central Bangkok, just a 3-minute walk from the Chong Nonsi BTS station.
Upon entering, you’ll find a simple, yet charming interior with a brick design, comfortable Nordic-style chairs and tables, and tasteful dividers and candle stands that create a calming atmosphere.
The owner and chef, Thitid Tassanakajohn (known as Ton), is in his early 30s.
After graduating from Chulalongkorn University, the top university in Thailand, he studied at the renowned Culinary Institute of America in New York.
He honed his skills at Michelin three-star restaurants such as Eleven Madison Park and Jean Georges in New York. In 2013, he returned to Thailand and opened “LE.DU,” which means “season” in Thai.
He uses seasonal Thai ingredients and applies New York techniques to create new Thai dishes.
Slowly but surely, LE.DU has gained recognition as one of Thailand’s top restaurants and was first nominated in 2017 as #37 on the list of “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.”
Tom Yam Kung, Kao Niow Mamuang, Curry… reconstruct Thai cuisine in a never-before-seen form
Business is only for dinner, and the basic is course.
There are two menu options: “6-COURSE TASTING MENU” (2990 Thai baht) and the prefix “4-COURSE” (1690 Thai baht). This time, we will introduce the standard “4-COURSE”.
First, the amuse-bouche.
Renge gives a Chinese atmosphere, but it’s a snack of Thai hospitality, “Mahoe.”
Originally, raw pineapple is used at “Nahm”, but it was made into jelly here.
The Chef Ton is said to be knowledgeable about wine, so the drink is wine.
I have a good impression of a wine that provides a crisp taste.
When French or Italian cuisine with crisp flavors are lined up, it’s good to go from white to red wine, but it is argued that rosé is a multi-correspondent that covers Asian cuisine including Japanese and Chinese.
The first course is “FIRST: Cold Dish / Shrimp Salad.” While feeling the freshness of Thai ingredients, I was interested in the sauce. Is this Thai curry?
And the second dish is selected from the signature “SECOND: from the Forest & Sea”, “River Prawn / Grilled River Shrimp.”
The impressive juicy and plump 20cm-plus body of the shrimp, but this sauce is also interesting. At first, I didn’t understand because it was creamy, but I realized with a smile that I had eaten a familiar taste before.
That’s Tom Yum Kung!
The main meat dish is “THIRD: From the ranch.” “Pork Belly.”
I ordered “Pork Belly,” but what came out was definitely “pork belly,” but when I put it in my mouth, the flavor was mostly “Ton Por Lo”.
However, with the balance of the fragrant vegetable side dish, it finally reminded me that this is Thailand. The side dish of vegetables is stylishly arranged.
The wine is a red Bordeaux.
And the fourth and final dish is “Coconut Ice Cream.”
The ice cream has a rich flavor, but here I am drawn to the sweets made of glutinous rice placed below the ice cream.
A new-generation mixture that goes beyond “fusion”
When the chef appeared here, I told him, “It was interesting,” and he smiled, saying, “Yes, it’s just Thai cuisine.”
Thai cuisine serves as the starting point, and contemporary French cuisine and sometimes Chinese cuisine techniques are also used in the process.
If I were to explain the appearance, I might be able to give a surface explanation.
Actually, when I needed to briefly explain the restaurant to someone, I used the words “Thai cuisine with a form of French cuisine.”
In general, fusion of food culture from one region with that of another is no longer a rare thing.
Thai cuisine’s pioneer in this field is considered to be “Issaya Siamese Club.”
I remembered talking to Ian Kitcchai, the key person, who said “It’s interesting to see innovative Thai cuisine made by young chefs in the future.”
“Le Due” is certainly one of them.
What I felt from Chef Ton’s dishes was not just a fusion, but rather a stance of completely dismantling each cuisine, mixing the particles and then reconstructing it.
While in Bangkok, I also felt that this may be how the new generation is approaching diversity.
Although it is not extremely expensive as fine dining, it is a restaurant where you can enjoy a casual atmosphere, but the bomb placed behind it had more destructive power than expected – that’s how I felt after dinner.
–Restaurant Information–
Business Hours: Dinner 18:00-23:00
Holiday: Sun.
Telephone: +66 92 919 9969
Address: 399/3 Silom soi7 Silom Bangrak Bangkok
Official web
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