“Sühring” is a highly acclaimed restaurant in Bangkok that keeps within the top 10 in “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants”, was upgraded to 2 stars in Michelin in 2019 and ranked 258th in the world in “La Liste”.
Its dinner course is so persuasive that it dispels the naive question of “Why German cuisine in Thailand?”.
Ave. Budget: Lunch course 7500 THB, Dinner course 7500 THB / “Michelin Guide Bangkok 2023″ 2-star, “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022” No.7
“Sühring” combines the precision of modern gastronomy with the warmth of grandmother’s cooking.
One year ago, in late February, I was most surprised by “Sühring” in the announcement of “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017”.
It opened in February 2016 and in just over a year, it won 13th place in Asia.
I didn’t even know it existed before it was listed on that list. When I asked my friend in Bangkok, I was told “Well, they have the power, they were the chefs at ‘Metzaruna’, which is one of the best grand restaurants in Bangkok”.
‘Metzaruna’ is indeed a well-known French restaurant in Bangkok, but ‘Sühring’ is known for contemporary German cuisine.
It left me with a “?” mark in my head as the connection between dots and lines was missing.
Now, after knowing its subsequent success, it seems like a long time ago that I was left with that question mark.
In December, it was awarded 1 star in the Michelin and easily ranked 258th in the world in “La Liste”. It is overflowing with positive reviews on global review sites, which say that it is the best in Bangkok for foodies.
The twin chefs, Thomas and Matthias from Berlin, are the ones who built such a famous restaurant in just one year.
Both of them honed their skills in various countries such as Spain, Sweden, Denmark, and Italy, and were invited and moved to Bangkok as chefs at “Metzaruna”.
A glass-enclosed house in Bangkok that feels like a secluded German forest.
The concept behind the opening of the restaurant was to showcase their German roots in cooking.
They wanted to introduce the public to German cuisine beyond just beer and sausages.
This concept is reflected not only in the food, but also in the overall design of the restaurant.
Located in the residential area of Yen Akat, about a 30-minute walk from public transportation, Zürling is a serene glass-walled house surrounded by lush greenery.
It’s a surprise to find such a forest in the middle of Bangkok. The atmosphere inside is like a quiet glass house in a German forest, giving the feeling of being in a cooler environment, with a temperature drop of about 5 degrees.
The restaurant operates only for dinner and serves two courses: either an 8-course or a 12-course menu.
The menu is only for dinner, and there is no lunch service.
There are only two dinner courses to choose from, an 8-course menu priced from 2,900 Baht (about 10,500 yen) and a 12-course menu priced from 3,400 Baht (about 12,000 yen).
If you only consider the dishes, the pricing feels like a good value.
However, wine is expensive in Thailand, so if you order a wine pairing course (which is almost the same price as the course menu), it may seem a little expensive.
The first dish is an Appetithäppchen (appetizer) in the form of a bite-sized “Pretzel & Obatzda”.
The drink is a cocktail made of German beer and lemonade.
The menu has a strong German feel, and it seemed half-humorous, but the deliciousness of the pretzel makes you realize that this is serious. Obatzda is a dip, and it was orange-colored here.
The second dish is also a bite-sized item, including a salmon burger, onion cake, and Knuckle Brown.
I was able to get a better understanding of the atmosphere, so I paired it with an orange wine from the wine list.
The wine list focuses on German and Austrian wines, and it also distinguishes “Organic Wine”, “Bio-Dynamic Wine”, and “Natural Wine”. This is the first time I have seen a restaurant like this.
The next dish is a sandwich.
You can make it yourself with ingredients like ham, fresh shrimp, and others, on a rye bread. This also feels very German.
One of the chefs (they are twins, so I don’t know which one) came to the table to say hello, and we talked a lot.
They laughed and said, “I haven’t learned German cuisine”.
They seem to have recreated their grandmother’s cooking using the skills they developed after becoming professionals by connecting fragments of their memories.
Satisfying with many dishes in small quantities, full stomach
While they were exchanging those words, the service staff starts preparing something.
Oh, black truffle. The aroma is nice. And what came out was German-style pasta. The truffle is skillfully placed on top of it.
To be precise, it’s a German egg noodle dish called “Spätzle”. The truffle and egg go well together. The thickness of the noodle is very German-like.
The main meat dish is “Nozaki beef shoulder” from Japan.
In Bangkok, high-quality ingredients are often from Japan, so the staff is probably knowledgeable in how to use them. Although sometimes the appreciation for Japanese ingredients decreases abroad, this dish was delicious.
Precise cuisine like a German car
After eating all of this, even the berries served with the dessert ice cream started to seem German. Although I’m not familiar with what makes something seem German.
Finally, it was finished off with petit fours and zabaione.
Zabaione is a dessert made with egg yolks and Marsala wine, and its rich sweetness makes you want to say it’s German… but in fact, it originated in northern Italy, in Piedmont.
With pasta, meat dishes, and a finale to top it off, it was served in small plates, so we ate it all crispy, but in the end, our stomachs were quite full.
The persuasive power of cuisine that is supported by both classical and innovative factions.
The cooking is overall precise without any gaps, and that precision is probably where the German-ness comes from. It’s impressive to see that when Germans, being known as an industrialized country, focus on precision, it leads to something extraordinary.
As mentioned earlier, “Zürling” has received the highest possible evaluations, and what’s interesting is that it is not hated by any type of people. It’s common for there to be a gap in evaluations between people who prefer classics and those who prefer innovation,
This is a highly anticipated store that is likely to become even more impressive in the future, and has the potential to become a legend in a few years.
–Information of “Sühring” —
Business Hours: Dinner 18:00-22:00
Holiday: Mon & Tue
Telephone: +66 2 287 1799
Address: Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, Rama 1 Road 991/9, 10330, Bangkok
Official web
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