Foodies Asia (en)For "foodies" who are particular about food.

 

Located in Taiwan’s Taichung, “JL STUDIO” is a contemporary Singaporean cuisine sensation.

This Restaurant has managed to meld traditional Singaporean and home-style dishes with New Nordic cuisine techniques, resulting in a beautiful dining experience through their courses. Hats off to their innovative approach.

平均予算：ディナー 15,000～20,000円／「ミシュラン台湾 2020」2つ星、「アジアのベストレストラン50 2020」No.26

 

 

An Emerging Star Elevating Modern Singaporean Cuisine in Taiwan

For those who have been following some of the restaurants we’ve introduced on this site, you may already be familiar with the trend of innovative cuisine that respects its regional roots. Since “Noma,” this approach has become a significant trend among top restaurants, and it’s exciting to see this style of cuisine emerging all over Asia. However, it had been a bit elusive to find contemporary Singaporean cuisine, one of the three major culinary regions in Asia, in Singapore itself.

While places like “Wild Rocket” in Singapore follow a similar path, they still have an Italian influence, and “Candlenut,” known for its Peranakan cuisine, has a modern presentation but is relatively less innovative. So, it was a pleasant surprise to discover contemporary Singaporean cuisine in Taichung, Taiwan!

 

A Cozy Hidden Gem with a Private Dining Atmosphere

The restaurant is located about 7 kilometers west of Taichung Station.

It’s neither in the city center nor in a touristy area, so I had no preconceived notions about the place. After getting off the free Taichung city bus and walking along Sec. 2, Public Road, I noticed a row of rather stylish restaurants.

I spotted the sign for “JL Studio” but couldn’t find the entrance.

So, I decided to ask the staff at the casual dining restaurant on the ground floor, and they pointed me to this entrance. I walked through the tables and found an elevator at the back. I see, that’s how it’s set up.

The atmosphere feels like a private dining experience, which is quite nice.

 

Dinner-Only Service with Two Set Menus

Normally, they offer only two tasting menus: the “Menu Discovery” with 10 dishes for TWD 2,800 (about USD 100) and the “Menu Experience” with 12 dishes for TWD 3,800 (about USD 135). Since it was New Year’s Eve, they were only offering the “Menu Experience.” The menu is well-constructed, and the chef’s intentions are explained in the preface.

Chef Jimmy Lim, a Singaporean who has also trained in Northern Europe, draws inspiration from the food cultures of Singapore and Southeast Asia, where he was born and raised. This is reflected in the various dishes he creates.

The menu also includes a section on beverages, although it may appear to be a decoration. It’s actually for the drink list. They offer a range of beverages from individual drinks to wine pairings. The pairing includes a 3-5 glass degustation, which is quite manageable for those who don’t drink much. Taiwan itself doesn’t have a strong culture of alcohol consumption, which may influence this selection.

I’ll provide more details later, but when I was discussing “natural wine” with the staff, they kindly selected three bottles for me that leaned towards the biodynamic side.

 

A succession of beautifully crafted small dishes – Appetizers

“Rose Shrimp, Cuttle Fish, Chinese Radish”

For the appetizers, inspired by Peranakan cuisine (the culinary culture of Chinese immigrants in places like Singapore), there was a dish presented in a tart shell called “Kueh Pie Tee,” showcasing a beautiful style. Deliciousness can be described as beautiful taste.

Following that, “Nasturtium, Cabbage, Spring Onion,” and just when I thought there was a lineup of aesthetically pleasing snacks, a mode change occurred right here – i

Introducing the newly released(?!), “Porky.” Its formal menu name is “HuaLian Magao, Bar Kwah.”

It’s a unique sense of taste that’s typical of Taiwan, where they appreciate Japanese snacks more than the Japanese themselves. However, it seemed that the staff were a bit shy about serving them to Japanese customers, which was cute.

Here, there was also “Betal Leaf” that wasn’t on the menu. It’s a leaf known for its chewing quality, used in Southeast Asia, Oceania, and other regions.

I’ve experienced the presentation of “there’s only one edible stone” with stones and potatoes at several restaurants, but this was the first time with leaves.

Although the correct way is to have the filling inside, since the leaves are edible as well, it’s not just one you can eat, but it’s still quite an intriguing presentation.

 

 

・Throughout the course, showcasing the potential of ingredients while not forgetting innovation

After enjoying the small items with your eyes and taste buds, there was a slight shift in style from this point.

“Bafun Uni, Papaya, Sweet Potato.”

This features Hokkaido horse dung sea urchin eaten with mango, a combination not commonly found in Japan.

Then came “Abalone, King Oyster, Shroom Kut Teh” in a soup format.

Featuring abalone and oyster with a shiitake mushroom-based soup, it gives off an Oriental impression.

After finishing the slightly stronger dishes, it was time for a palate cleanser with Chinese tea.

It’s often the case that these subtle items make quite an impression.

 

The subtly incorporated Singaporean taste in the climax of the meal

Instead of wine to accompany the next dish, we had a cocktail packed with fruity flavors.

The highlight of the middle part of the meal was the “Penghu Jumbo Prawn, Banana Curry, Banana Blossom.” It had a curry flavor.

It might not be exactly like “apple and honey, melting smoothly♪,” but the combination of the cocktail’s fruitiness and this prawn curry was exquisite.

Setting that aside, since Singapore has a significant Indian population, curry is quite common there.

Rice flour skin with a sweet and savory sauce. Yes, it’s a reinterpretation of Singapore’s noodle dish “Laksa.”

It made me think once again, “Oh right, this is Singaporean cuisine.”

 

“Homemade, Kueh Tiao, Market Seafood, Kai Lan.”

A French Alsace wine characterized by sweetness, such as Riesling and Gewürztraminer, deliberately chosen with a Pinot Noir organic wine.

With strawberry-like aromas and a light body, it was interesting.

“Boneless Short Rib, Fish Sauce, Caramel, Green Chilli Sambal, Jidame, Petai.”

The main meat dish was short rib.

With subtly used sambal sauce and other Southeast Asian influences, it had a faint aroma.

They took an extra step with the palate-cleansing sorbet “Jambu.”

As a bonus, they served a unique sake.

Apparently, it was from a collaboration with “Ode” in December, and it was something Chef Jimmy Lin left behind.

The dessert was “Milk Custard Apple, Osmanthus.”

Since it was winter, they created a snowy scene.

It’s probably snow from the imagination since it doesn’t snow in either Taiwan or Singapore.

The petit fours were presented elegantly as well.

There were no shortcomings right up to the end.

 

A rising star that seems poised to make waves on an Asian level

Honestly, I found this restaurant to be quite to my liking, and objectively, I think it offers high-quality courses.

In my personal experience, among the emerging restaurants I’ve encountered in 2018, this establishment easily ranks among the top.

Until now, the only restaurant in Taichung that had garnered international attention from food enthusiasts was the modern French restaurant “Le Mou,” which unfortunately closed its doors after a decade in 2018.

While Taichung is an appealing cultural city with art museums, museums, and some free city buses, it doesn’t boast an abundance of tourist attractions. Therefore, I had been thinking that opportunities to visit the city might become less frequent.

Previously, “Le Mou” was there to fill the gap, but I believe this new restaurant more than makes up for its absence.

I’d venture to say that it’s a strong contender for the “One to Watch Award” at the upcoming “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” announced in March, which recognizes restaurants with the potential to shine in the near future.

 

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