A restaurant with farm-to-table cuisine and paper tube architecture by Shigeru Ban.
In a style that updates vegetable dishes, it is one of the most advanced contemporary French dishes.
Ave. Budget: Lunch 10,000-15,000 JPY, Dinner 15,000-20,000 JPY / “Michelin Guide Ishikawa 2021” 2-star & green-star
Restaurant features
The store name “Les Tonnelles” is derived from the word “grape trellis” and refers to the shelves and dome-shaped wooden exteriors installed in the eaves and garden.
The concept is to reduce the distance between the food and the customer to zero with the produce from the vast farmland of the “vine” which is operated as an orchard.
2 Michelin starred star
The recent gastronomy trend in Hokuriku has seen an increase in high-quality restaurants featuring contemporary and innovative output based on local production for local consumption.
In the “Michelin Guide Hokuriku” announced in mid-May 2021, it won two stars.
I myself made a reservation in early May and visited in late May. By the time I asked, I assumed that I would probably have won the stars, but the number was completely different.
If you go by public transportation, the nearest station is Morimoto Station, which is the second station from Kanazawa on the IR Ishikawa Railway Line.
When I left Morimoto Station, I thought it was a residential area, but as I walked, the greenery increased.
Looking at the scene, I was relieved that it was a “farm restaurant” after all, but when I arrived at the entrance of “Budonoki”, the staff was waiting for me.
“I was wondering if you could arrive at this time?”
Course only
There are two default menus: the ¥8,000 course and the ¥15,000 course.
When you enter the store, you will be guided to the sofa seat.
Welcome drink
3 types of amuse bouche
Architect Shigeru Ban’s typical style is to use paper tubes for his buildings, and this style is also used here at Les Tonnelles.
The amuse plate uses its architectural signature.
Asparagus bouquet
Dash beans
It is said to be “three types of amuse”, but the burdock on the third dish is blank.
Move your seat to the counter.
Burdock
There, the chef himself extracted burdock soup with a siphon.
In addition to that, what was placed in the plate was mozzarella cheese.
The burdock soup is put in, and the customer himself mixes it with a spoon to complete the mozzarella cheese.
Huh, is mozzarella like this? and rediscovered.
Appetizers and main dishes with vegetables as the name of the menu for both fish and meat dishes
Moving to the table, now, the start of the main part.
Outside the window, you can see the grape trellis, which is linked to the architecture of the restaurant, and the atmosphere is perfect.
The menu is folded in an “umbrella paper” style that protects the bunches of grapes from the rain.
Gardener, Takada Lab
Great things came from the beginning.
It seems that the image of eating while harvesting vegetables delivered from Mr. Takada, who cultivates vegetables.
The names of the producers are being used more and more in the menu, but I think it’s interesting to see the people who are cultivating the fields right there.
The bread also has a pairing taste, and Mr. Takada’s vegetables are kneaded.
“If you can take a picture, please arrange the vegetables neatly.”
In the foreground is lightly smoked egg yolk and vinegar jelly.
Eggs and vinegar are ingredients for mayonnaise, and when mixed together, it becomes a homemade mayonnaise-like sauce.
At the time of my visit, there was a request from Ishikawa Prefecture to refrain from offering different varieties, so I went for a non-alcoholic pairing, but at first it was full of herbs and made the best use of the sense of the field.
Beats
It is a dish using seasonal beets.
It is strange that several cooking methods are incorporated to create a sausage-like texture.
The drink to match is non-alcoholic, but it tastes like beer.
How could that be? Please actually go and ask the sommelier how it works.
It should be “yes”.
The bread is simple, matching the sausage and beer (taste).
I would say it sounds a little German.
Green Peas
From the menu name of green peas, if you think it is a plate of vegetables again, you can say it is a fish dish.
There is flounder below.
Snap peas
A small item not on the menu, young snap peas.
This can be said to be a valuable dish that cannot be served unless you have a farm, as it is not shipped to the market.
Asparagus
The meat dish is also a vegetable name, but duck breast poele.
But personally, the asparagus, and the lower part of the stem is a hit.
The top half is grilled, and the bottom half is fritted.
This is also non-alcoholic, with a wine-like finish that goes well with duck meat.
Dessert is also course tailored
After the main course was over, an announcement was made that “the dessert is also structured like a course”.
Looking at the menu, the 8,000 yen course has 2 items + small sweets, and the 15,000 yen course has 3 items + small sweets.
Blueberry
The first dish is 4 items at once.
4 styles of blueberries, an amuse-like position in the dessert course.
Paired with a non-alcoholic drink made from rose extract.
Mozzarella
A main dessert inspired by the shape of a bee.
Petit-four
After-meal drink with a choice of coffee, herbal tea, black tea, or espresso.
Along with that, it comes with small sweets that make you feel like Kanazawa.
The chef is a new leader in using vegetables
Even so, I’m impressed that even just vegetables and non-alcoholic can bring out the taste so far.
In particular, the beetroot sausage may not be based on the concept of “imitating” something, but it is one of the traditional Shanghai vegetarian dishes that I ate at “Fu He Hui”, a famous creative vegetarian restaurant in Shanghai. It reminds me of the field “The latest model of imitation cuisine”.
No way, I want to go to Shanghai in Kanazawa! What do you remember?
Aside from such a personal story, when I thought it was amazing that there was such a vocabulary for vegetables,
Chef Toshiharu Sunayama created 1-star “Le Buffet de la Garedes Eaux-Vives” in Geneva, 2-star “La Grenouillère” in Montreuil-sur-Mer, France, and then 3-star “Flocons” in Megeve, France. de sel”, he learned how to use vegetables at a well-known restaurant.
It may have been the feeling that the environment, where there are not only vineyards but also paddy fields and vegetable fields outside the store, was a good fit for me.
As someone who uses vegetables with a new sense, it is certain that the quality was such that it would stand out nationwide in the future.
With that in mind, even if you’re not a vegetarian, it might be interesting to try the “vegetarian course”.
Menu
【Lunch / Dinner】
“Course of 8,000 JPY” *Tax and service charge included
3 amuse bouche, 2 hors d’oeuvres, fish dish, meat dish, 2 desserts, small sweets
“Course of 15,000 JPY” *Tax and service charge included
3 amuse bouche, 3 hors d’oeuvres, fish dish, meat dish, 3 desserts, small sweets
“Vegitarian Course” 12,000 JPY *Tax and service charge included
13-15 courses including amuse bouche and dessert
＊Menus and prices are for reference only. Please note that this may change depending on the season and availability of ingredients.
How to Reserve
You cen book by phone or web. Immediate web reservations are accepted at “Pocket-Concierge”.
Map & Access
10 minutes walk from “Morimoto Station”.
Shop Info: “Les Tonnnelles“
Business Hours: Lunch 11:30-L.O. 12:30 Dinner 18:00-L.O. 19:30
Holiday: Wed
Telephone: 076-258-0204
Address: 50-1 ha, Iwade-cho, Kanazawa-shi, Ishikawa
Official web/su_button] Check the information on Tabelog
List of Michelin starred restaurants in Ishikawa Prefecture▽
List of Michelin green starred restaurants in Ishikawa Prefecture▽
