“Dewakan” is a restaurant located in the suburbs of Kuala Lumpur that weaves together new Malaysian cuisine.
While its international renown is still growing, its skill and sense for incorporating the influences of New Nordic Cuisine into high-level Malaysian cuisine is truly top-class.
Ave. Budget: Dinner course 788.8 RM / “Michelin Guide Malaysia 2023″ 1-star, “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022” No.50
Realizing the philosophy of New Nordic Cuisine through Malay cooking
I previously wrote something like “Fine dining in Malaysia doesn’t get attention,” but if you look hard enough, it seems like there are some great places out there after all.
While they may not have international recognition yet, there are tasty and creative restaurants emerging, and one of them is “dewakan.”
Actually, I learned about it from Chef Morieda of Shimokitazawa’s “Salmon and Trout.” In short, it’s Malaysian cuisine through the lens of New Nordic Cuisine, and it’s personally one of my favorite places.
Fine dining on campus
Please let me know if there are any specific location names or terms that need to be translated.
The first challenge is the location. It is located in the area called “Shah Alam”, which is about 25km away from the center of Kuala Lumpur, so it’s a bit far.
Compared to Japan, the fare is still relatively cheap, so it is recommended to use a taxi from the city center (about 30-60 minutes).
However, the traffic in the evening can be quite bad, so to avoid that, it is best to take the LRT’s 5th line: Kelana Jaya Line or the KTM Commuter’s 2nd line: Port Klang Line to “Subang Jaya” station (about 30 minutes), and then take a taxi from there (about 15 minutes).
For tourists, two stations away, there is the “Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Mosque”, which is the second-largest in Asia, so it might be a good idea to visit the mosque and then have dinner.
The restaurant is located on the basement level of the KDU University College. It’s quite interesting to have a high-end restaurant inside a university, but according to the manager, the space was made available through a public-private startup program. Perhaps due to this background, the restaurant is spacious.
The name of the restaurant, “Dewakan,” which gives a somewhat mysterious impression, is a coined word that combines the Malay word for god, “Dewa,” and “Makan,” meaning to eat. The concept behind the name is to connect the ingredients from the sea, farm, mountains, and jungle onto a canvas in the most interesting way possible.
A beautiful amuse-bouche & appetizer with subtle tricks
The menu consists of 17 dishes for 370 Malaysian Ringgit (about 10,500 yen) called “MENU KAYANGAN”, and 11 dishes for 300 Malaysian Ringgit (about 8,250 yen) called “MENU NUSANTARA”.
If you are going with a group, the restaurant requests that everyone order the same menu. The amuse-bouche and appetizers are beautifully presented with intricate details.
Since we went without a reservation (make sure to make one!), it took some time for the first dish to arrive, so we toasted with a Spanish white wine recommended by the sommelier, which had a rich aroma and was in good condition.
They wrap the bread in a napkin to keep it warm.
This style was a first-time experience.
The first dish is “CHOY SUM NORI”, not an object. The green part is a type of seaweed that is in a fritter-like state.
“CHOY SUM” is Chinese vegetable called “choy sum”, and while it feels like a snack, it hasn’t lost its handmade elegance.
Next up is a bite-sized dish, “BABY CORN”.
Followed by “YOGHURT & ROSELLE”. A snack with the scent of hibiscus tea and a herb called roselle.
It goes perfectly with wine.
“PRAWN UMAI, GREEN SAMBAL, A LIGHT SALAD” is a masterpiece. Beautiful and delicious. Under the appearance of a flower arranged with greens, there are hidden prawns. It is a green type of “sambal,” a chili seasoning unique to the Malay Peninsula, but it is not particularly spicy, and the flavor of the prawns dominates.
At this point, the diner’s feelings have also sharply switched. While the initial snacks may have only followed an innovative style, this dish seems to embody the spirit of digesting the country’s food ingredients and culture and incorporating them into a new style.
To the main where the Asian taste is getting thicker and thicker
Moving on to the main course, I switched to red wine. 
A Grenache from the Languedoc region of France, with a fruity yet transparent taste, leaving a good impression.
Although the selection of wines by the glass isn’t extensive, it’s apparent that they are carefully chosen.
One of the main courses is “WHAT DO SHEEP THINK WITH,” a goat meat tartare.
The meat is slightly cooked and mixed with herbs, finished off with slices of yellow root vegetables for presentation.
I was a bit worried that the meat would have a strong gamey taste, but it wasn’t too overpowering.
Those familiar with game meats would appreciate the flavors. The Asian influence becomes more prominent as the courses progress.
Next is the rice porridge, “BARIO RICE PORRIDGE.” Bario rice is hand-cultivated and pesticide-free rice grown in northeastern Malaysia.
It is prepared as porridge with sweetened red beans. It is enjoyable to eat with sausage and pickled greens, and adding salt enhances the flavor.
For the meat main dish, “BIDOR DUCK BREAST WITH BLOOD SAUCE,” the meat is prepared with Malaysian miso and has a Western-style pickled flavor.
The minced meat and stir-fried greens are also interesting. It is delicious when eaten with rice, from a Japanese perspective. The Asian taste becomes more and more prominent.
The first dessert, which also served as a palate cleanser, was a refreshing lime ice cream.
The main dessert is “TEMUAN CHOCOLATE WITH JAGGERY ICE CREAM”.
It’s made with Temuan, a Malaysian cocoa, and ice cream made from sap of the palm tree. Being able to make this with domestic ingredients is unique to tropical regions.
“Popsicle” to finish with frozen pineapple.
A new Asian cuisine created by experiencing the authentic Nordic spirit
My honest impression is that it was amazing.
Perhaps it was because I wasn’t expecting much from Malaysia, which wasn’t on my radar, but I don’t think this skill is something to take lightly.
Using domestically produced ingredients and mostly Malay cuisine elements, it had a highly sophisticated aftertaste. In that sense, if I were to compare it to a Japanese restaurant, the closest would probably be “Sera Rāba Ado”.
Although I didn’t ask which restaurant it was, I heard that the chef had experience working in Scandinavia.
It seems that the chef has firsthand experience with New Nordic Cuisine.
There are various ways to interpret it, but I think New Nordic Cuisine, or molecular gastronomy just prior to that, can be thought of as a “platform” in the same way that business or IT use the term.
In other words, the form or vessel can be changed, while the contents remain the same.
If that is the essence, then innovative Asian cuisine is by no means unnatural.
It was an excellent restaurant in Malaysia where I was able to feel that.
『dewakan（デワカン）』店舗情報
平均予算：400-600マレーシアリンギット（約10,000～15,000円）
営業時間：18:30-23:30
定休日：日曜
電話番号：+60 1 2789 6720
住所：Platinum Park, Level 48, Skyviews Naza Tower, No. 10, Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur, 50088 Kuala Lumpur, マレーシア
オフィシャルHP（英文）はこちら
–Restaurant Information on “Dewakan”–
Business Hours: Dinner 18:30-23:30
Holiday: Sun
Telephone: +60 1 2789 6720
Address:Platinum Park, Level 48, Skyviews Naza Tower, No. 10, Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur, 50088 Kuala Lumpur,
Official web
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