Foodies Asia (en)For "foodies" who are particular about food.

 

A renowned establishment near Zenkoji Temple in Nagano City, known for its expertise in Edo-style sushi, refined through independent evolution from Tokyo’s prestigious restaurants.

Since its opening in 2008, this restaurant has consistently delivered high-quality sushi in landlocked Nagano, where the ocean is not in close proximity.

Ave. Budget: Lunch: 15,000 to 20,000 yen, Dinner: 20,000 to 30,000 yen / “gault-millau 2023” 3 tok

Make a reservation on Tabelog

 

 

Restaurant features

 

I learned about the existence of this place through the renowned French-originating guidebook “Gault et Millau,” which has gained traction in Japan.

In the 2023 edition, four establishments from Nagano Prefecture are featured, and one of them is a sushi restaurant selected from Nagano City. This detail left an impression on me.

 

There’s an omakase-style single nigiri selection, and three courses abundant in appetizers.

There are three courses available with a rich assortment of appetizers, but since I wanted to solely enjoy the nigiri, I opted for the 16,000 yen “Yui” nigiri course.

 

Octopus Simmered in Cherry Blossom Broth

To start, a light appetizer.

Simulated octopus simmered to resemble the trunk of a cherry blossom tree.

 

Crab Chawanmushi

Chawanmushi with crab-infused sauce.

Moving on to the preparations for the nigiri, they use rice from Togomi.

The shari (rice) is prepared with Edo-style red vinegar, and the vinegar used is Fuji vinegar from Iio Brewery in Miyazu, Kyoto.

 

White Kinmedai (Alfonsino)

While red and yellow kinmedai are more common, this kinmedai is white.

 

Bigfin Reef Squid

 

Turban Shell

 

Kasugo (Baby Sea Bream)

 

Torigai (Japanese Cockle)

 

Chutoro (Medium Fatty Tuna)

The tuna comes from Oma, aged for about 10 days.

 

Pickled Nigiri

 

Ara (Tuna Collar)

Tuna continues.

 

Striped Jack

 

Shinko (Baby Japanese Whiting)

 

White Shrimp

From Toyama.

 

Here, let’s take a break for some miso soup.

 

Sea Urchin

Wrapped not in seaweed but thinly sliced cucumber, offering a summery touch.

 

Simmered Clams

 

Anago (Conger Eel)

 

Tamago (Egg)

The final piece, but as you can see, it resembles a chocolate cake. While it’s made with traditional Edo-style fish paste and egg, it’s mixed with Amazon cocoa. Furthermore, an unusual cocoa pulp jam is added.

It’s interesting to note that the chef spent three weeks in Peru alongside unconventional chefs like Chef Ohta from “La Casa de Tetsuo Ohta” in Karuizawa and Chef Maeda from “Restaurant MOTOI” in Kyoto. They explored indigenous food cultures, and I had the chance to taste 100% pure cocoa.

As a side note, when I entered the restaurant, I felt a somewhat stern atmosphere from the chef, but as the meal progressed, the chef’s playful side gradually emerged. His enthusiastic storytelling about his experiences in Peru was particularly memorable. His curiosity was evident.

While rooted in Edo-style techniques, the sushi offered here is constantly evolving to keep customers engaged, likely influenced by the chef’s character.

 

Nagano Milk Pudding

The closing dessert is a pudding made with Nagano milk. It’s accompanied by cassis and blueberry jam.

 

To Summarize

One of the things that surprised me while living in Nagano was the frequent use of the term “landlocked prefecture.”

I thought it was something people from other prefectures joked about, but even locals here use it. However, in the case of northern Shinshu, I wonder if that’s true.

For example, it’s only about 50 km from my current home to Niigata-joetsu’s fishing port.

Having lived in Shibuya, Tokyo, I can’t recall any functioning fishing ports within a 50 km radius.

In fact, supermarkets in northern Shinshu offer seafood that’s more cost-effective than what you’d find in Tokyo or Osaka.

Ultimately, it’s a matter of people. Skilled craftsmen with technical expertise, a sense of artistry, and determination to create, and whether there are recipients who can truly enjoy that.

When considering this, it’s not surprising that Nagano City has an exceptional sushi restaurant. This realization made for a satisfying evening.

 

 

 

Menu

【Nigiri Sushi】
“Yui” – 16,000 yen

How to make a reservation

You can make a reservation either by phone or through the web. Immediate web reservations are accepted on Tabelog.

Make a reservation on Tabelog

 

 

Map/Access

Approximately a 15-minute walk from JR “Nagano Station” and Nagano Electric Railway “Gondo Station”. Take the city loop bus from JR Nagano Station Zenkoji Exit Bus Terminal to “Zenkoji Daimon” stop, then a 5-minute walk.

 

 

 

 

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