This “Nitan” is a notable newcomer that suddenly appeared in a corner of Chalong Bay, an area that symbolizes the development of Phuket’s gourmet scene.
I was impressed by the style of incorporating the essence of Southern Thai cuisine into contemporary European cuisine in a sophisticated way.
Average budget: Dinner 100-150 USD / “Michelin Guide Phuket 2021” Michelin Plate.
An innovative newcomer to the restaurant scene in Phuket
It was far. And it was good.
That’s my honest impression, but since this article was written by someone who is not sure whether it’s good because it’s far or far because it’s good, please bear that in mind as you read on.
This “Nitan” was on my radar because it’s the sister restaurant of “Surf & Turf by Soul Kitchen,” which earned a Bib Gourmand in the “Michelin Guide Phuket,” and is also a rarity in Phuket with its focus on course meals.
It’s located in a corner of the commercial area called “Baan WANA”.
If you search on Google Maps, it’s about 5km (about 10 minutes by car) from Cherng Talay.
It was about a 40-minute walk, so I decided to stay at the nearest hotel, which was still a 20-minute walk away.
When I checked on the Grab app, the fare was 300 THB for a 2km, 4-minute ride.
What!? With that much money, you can go to the airport.
The taxi and Grab situation in Phuket is crazy…
At times like this, the best thing to have is a friend who doesn’t drink.
Moreover, a friend who loves driving and is willing to go abroad for good food, but unfortunately I didn’t have such a convenient companion, so I walked in the dark.
I wouldn’t recommend it if you’re not a big fan, so you should make sure to secure your transportation before going.
Menu focuses on courses
While à la carte options are available, the menu at the restaurant is primarily focused on courses.
There are two main options: the 4-course tasting menu for 1,200 baht and the 7-course tasting menu for 1,900 baht.
In addition, there is a 5-course vegetarian tasting menu available for 900 baht.
They also have an extensive wine selection, including some slightly sparkling Loire wines.
Their wine selection shows a good taste in selection and can be trusted.
“Blue Crab”
The cold appetizer is a “crab salad”.
I’ve had “Black Crab” many times in Phuket, but I don’t know what the difference is between that and “Blue Crab”.
Both are delicious.
It’s made refreshing with ingredients like apple and cucumber, and sweetened with mango, and served with gazpacho.
It can be described as tropical cuisine befitting of a resort island.
“CHICKEN MOUSSELINE RAVIOLI”
Chicken mousse-filled ravioli served with rice chips.
The sauce is unexpectedly tricky. It’s a coconut curry with papaya that packs a punch with its considerable spiciness.
“RED MULLET”
It’s a fish called “Himeji” or “Himehirame” in Japan.
It’s grilled with its scales on, similar to a grilled Amadai, but the scales are soft.
It’s a white-fleshed fish that goes down smoothly.
The sabayon sauce used as a topping also has miso blended in, so you can feel a bit of Japanese flavor in the seasoning as well.
“TIGER PRAWN”
This tiger prawn was the most impressive dish.
First, I was surprised by its size. It’s about the size of a small lobster, and the meat is firm.
And the sauce is cleverly made.
On the right is a custard-like version of Tom Yum Kung, and on the left is a foam sauce made from prawn juice.
“CHICKEN BREAST”
The first main dish is grilled chicken breast.
The mini eggplant on top has a strong presence, but the chicken underneath is the main attraction.
The addition of Thai “LOOK-CHOAK” adds an exotic atmosphere.
“BEEF TENDERLOIN”
The meat main course is grilled tenderloin covered with “NAAM-PRIK-KHA,” a Thai street food sauce.
Naam prik kha is a chili sauce made primarily with galangal and is typically served with grilled beef, sticky rice, and fresh vegetables.
So, this main dish could also be called a Thai-style steak.
The side dish is also interesting, with mashed potatoes topped with a puree made from purple cabbage.
“GUAVA”
The dessert consisted of guava ice cream, white chocolate mousse, and plum.
Summary:
We have reported on the contents of the tasting course in a brief manner, but it was an interesting course. The restaurant’s unique style seems to be about hiding Asian flavors behind a European-style presentation.
Comparing it to PRU, which embodies farm-to-table cuisine, their obsession with local ingredients is unparalleled, but it remains focused on Western cuisine. On the other hand, while NITAN also adopts a Western-style presentation, it has a more innovative approach that feels closer to the native Thai sensibility.
It is enjoyable to appreciate the differences in their individual styles, which underscores the bottom-up approach of Phuket’s gourmet scene.
From here on, it’s going to be a bit of a digression, but I actually visited on a Monday night and I was the only customer.
I couldn’t help feeling somewhat sorry that they had to open just for me and my reservation, but it was a déjà vu situation.
Exactly one year ago, when I went to “Dewakan” in Kuala Lumpur (which has recently moved, but at the time was also far from the city center), I was also dining alone in a spacious dining room.
I wondered if the restaurant could stay in business despite having great food.
But when the 2019 “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” list was announced, it ranked No. 46, making it the first Malaysian restaurant to make the Best 50 list and naturally becoming a popular spot.
Of course, initial evaluations like this are unreliable, but as I dined at “NITAN” while reminiscing about my thoughts on Dewakan’s opening, I couldn’t help thinking the same thing, “The food is great, but…” as I observed the empty tables around me.
Well, it’s only natural that “PRU” from Thailand would enter the list as a new face for the 2020 “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants”.
However, from a personal perspective, it would be more interesting if the focus were on restaurants like “Loca Native Food Lab” in Chiang Rai and “NITAN”.
It was a discovery of a promising new restaurant that made me dream of such possibilities.
How to Reserve
Reservations can be made by phone or through the following web service (in Thai and English).
Map &Access
–Restaurant Information on “NITAN”–
Business hours: Dinner 18:00-23:00
Regular holiday: Sunday
Phone number: +66 65 683 0432
Address:38 177 Si Sunthon, Thalang District, Phuket
Official web
If you’re looking for Michelin-starred and Bib Gourmand restaurants in Phuket, we recommend this article.▽
If you’re looking for the top restaurants in Phuket Island, we recommend this article.▽
