“The Chairman” is a recommended restaurant to enjoy Cantonese cuisine that feels new because of its unassuming, minimalist approach that sticks to quality and simplicity, despite being a regular in “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” and holding one Michelin star.
Ave. Budget: Lunch course around 258++HKD, Dinner course 300-500 HKD / “Michelin Guide Hong Kong 2022” 1-star, “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022” No.5
A minimalist who doesn’t add anything, doesn’t subtract anything, and makes the most of the goodness of the ingredients.
Ferran Adria of El Bulli reportedly called it the restaurant that would shape the future of Cantonese cuisine, although the exact nuance of his words is unknown.
The restaurant’s specialty crab dish is rumored to be so delicious that it can make one feel high.
While Hong Kong boasts many renowned Cantonese restaurants, this restaurant stood out due to its unique and special approach.
It has consistently ranked on “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” at No. 18 in 2013, No. 35 in 2015, No. 27 in 2016, and No. 47 in 2017, and has been listed as “outstanding” on La Liste, while holding one Michelin star. It is located just above Sheung Wan, near the Kau Yan Fong Playground, and is relatively secluded, providing a peaceful atmosphere. Nearby is the new-wave Japanese restaurant “RONIN.”
The interior of the restaurant is very simple and avoids the cluttered feel often associated with Chinese restaurants, leaving a good impression.
Soups and hot dishes that simply bring out the goodness of the ingredients
The restaurant offers two lunch courses: a three-course option priced at 218 Hong Kong dollars and a four-course option priced at 238 Hong Kong dollars.
Both options include appetizers and a choice of main course from a selection of approximately ten dishes, including a vegetarian menu. As there was not much difference in price, the four-course option was chosen, with an upgraded main course to enjoy the famous crab dish.
In the end, with beer and service charge included, the total cost came to 850 Hong Kong dollars . Without the crab dish, the price range is quite reasonable.
The “Soup of the Day” is pork belly soup, which has a balance of sweetness from plums and pork fat. It has a rich flavor, yet leaves a refreshing aftertaste.
For the appetizer, they served “pigeon” that was marinated in oolong tea and chrysanthemum, and cooked for a long time at low temperature.The refreshing aroma of tea gives it a unique flavor and is very delicious, but the dish is very simple in presentation. It has the stripped-down appeal of Detroit techno with no excess ingredients, making it a pinnacle of minimalism that stimulates the imagination.
However, because there are many small bones, the eating process can be messy, so it might be a delicacy best enjoyed with close friends.
The famous “drunk crab” is a must-try
And then there was the main dish, the crab, which was also difficult to eat! “Steamed Flower Crab with Shaoxing Wine and Chicken Oil Sauce” is also known as the “drunken crab” because it is steamed with Shaoxing wine.
The meat was full of flavor and juice, thanks to the skilled cooking techniques that produced just the right level of doneness. The miso flavor was also present, and it was particularly delicious when eaten with the wide rice noodles called Chen Village Fen that came with the crab.
Come to think of it, I hadn’t had any carbs yet, but the Chen Village Fen was more than enough. The flavor of the crab broth, soy sauce, and Shaoxing wine permeated the noodles, making them so tasty that I would come just to eat them.
The price of this “Steamed Flower Crab with Shaoxing Wine and Chicken Oil Sauce” varies depending on the market, but it usually costs around 500-600 Hong Kong dollars (6,000-8,500 yen).
Will the future of Cantonese cuisine converge on the goodness of simple ingredients?
客がはけてきたので、デザートの「Osmanthus & Wolfberry Ice-cream（キンモクセイとクコ実のアイス）」を食べながら、サービスマンと少し話し込みます。
『陸羽茶室』ほどではないですが、古き良き香港を感じさせるダンディーさは別として、この店の特徴をこう説明してくれました。
食材の良さを活かすのが、広東料理の本質で、それを具現化するのがポリシーとのこと。
そこがソースの味が強調された北方の中華料理との決定的な違いで、実現するために香港の新地に自社農場を持ち有機野菜を育て、取引先の畜産農家や漁師を育て、質を高めている、と。
そう言われてみると、観光客に人気の老舗などとは、味付けが華美ではありません。
蟹は別として、フカヒレもナマコもツバメの巣も、中華の高級食材はメニューに入っていません。「だって、他の料理がじゅうぶんに面白いから、やっている暇がないんですよ」とは彼の弁。それでも、しっかりと旨みがあるというテイストは、現在の香港では珍しい店に入るかもしれません。
フェラン・アドリアが言う「未来」を勝手に解釈するならば、ガストロノミーも、その原点に戻っていく、いや、進んでいくということでしょうか。それは、私には好ましいことに思えました。
–Restaurant Information on “The Chairman”–
Business Hours: Lunch 12:00-15:00, Dinner 18:00-23:00
Holiday: Mon.
Telephone: +852 2555 2202
Address: 3rd Floor, The Wellington, 198 Wellington St, Central, 香港
オフィシャルwebページはこちら
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▽If you’re looking for Michelin-starred restaurants in Singapore, check out this article▽
▽If you’re looking for restaurants ranked in “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants,” this article is for you▽
